When Luc “Bim” Lafontaine opened Toronto’s Godspeed Brewery on Canada Day in 2017, his journey was defined by departure. Although he had been responsible for the creation of a number of internationally beloved beers at Montreal’s Brasserie Dieu Du Ciel, there had been brewing projects in the intervening years in Japan.
Not having the full context of his travels, Toronto expected the greatest hits of a brewery five hours down the highway. Five years in, we’re very lucky that Bim is not one to rest on his laurels.
A partnership with the Czech government resulted this year in two minor miracles: Bůh, a collaboration between Godspeed and Budvar, and Sklepnik, a loving homage to Pilsner Urquell.
They are the best lagers being brewed in Canada, perhaps in the country’s history.
Their existence is a testament to the attitude of the brewer. Many brewers, decades into their career, would think of themselves as complete. As a journeyman, nearing 50, armed with patience and wonder, Bim spent months in Czechia, learning how pilsners were made, befriending brewers, and observing the culture.
As a result, for the first time in its 180 years of existence, Pilsner Urquell provided Oak vessels for another brewery from its cooperage, and the pitch with which to line them. Sklepník, drawn from those 4,000-liter barrels that sailed the Atlantic, is unique—as is Godspeed.
As a role model for younger brewers, Bim sets an example at once humble and masterful, knowledgeable and curious, respectful of tradition yet willing to play. All of this while balancing work and family life. By his presence—especially this year—he has made other brewers better.
He stands as a reminder that there is possibility beyond the next trend. It requires only the courage to embark on that voyage.
Words,Jordan St. John