Good Beer Hunting

no. 205

There wasn't much about Copenhagen that reminded me of the States. The blend of Rococo and modern architecture, the J.-Crew-chiseled cheekbones on virtually everyone, the absolute subtlety a metropolitan capital can have. It all seemed rare, foreign, and delightfully new.

WarPigs, however, had a welcome touch of home.

Located in the meatpacking district, an area with incredibly strict preservation laws, the brewpub looks much like it did decades ago in its heyday as a slaughterhouse. But the 3 Floyds and Mikkeller neons behind the bar showed the establishment’s cards.

That slightly garish glow made me think of home. But the warm light bouncing off the historic subway tiles walked the line between American and Danish cultures. It’s the same line that WarPigs itself is trying to walk through its importation and blending of styles—beer and otherwise.

—Kyle Kastranec