Karel Goddeau seems to sit back and observe the rest of the Lambic world. The old family names fighting to preserve their history; the authors and researchers arriving on the scene to challenge said history; the young brands that avoid the politics altogether. Although rightly opinionated about the Lambic world, and willing to share his thoughts over some barrel samples and cheese, Goddeau is far more interested in showing you the folk music museum attached to his blending facility, De Cam Geuzestekerij, than he is discussing whatever hot new release is getting hyped.
De Cam is one of the smallest commercial Lambic blenders in Belgium. Goddeau trained under Armand Debelder from 3 Fonteinen, and received wort from Girardin, Lindemans, and Boon. He is still mourning the passing of his friend and mentor (Debelder succumbed to prostate cancer in March 2022). He speaks kindly of him, and honors his memory by maintaining processes at his own facility that he first learned as part of Debelder’s tutelage.
As we sit enjoying pitchers of unblended Lambic and tasting through bottles of new offerings on a warm spring day, the weight of the world and the heaviness of loss slowly begin to lift. Goddeau briefly allows a smile to flicker across his face before topping up our glasses.
Words + Photoby Tim Decker