Wait at the door, sanitize your hands, follow me to the table, download the app here. Input your details; please don’t go up to the bar. This is the new normal for those who want a quick pint in the U.K., and my first attempt at the routine was pretty jarring.
The Gen Zs across the way loved it—they logged in and ordered in seconds with their bank details stored, and little debate on what to drink. But behind me, three 50-year-olds wrestled with their phones and bemoaned the lack of “proper table service,” craning their necks to see what was on the bar despite it being listed clearly in the app.
Caught between two generations, I struggled to get signal to download the app but recognized the benefits—once signed in, every new beer was just a tap away. Soon I was back in my comfort zone, with a beer in hand and conversation flowing; the staff struggled to keep up with our table’s rounds. I hadn't had a rich, roasty, full-bodied cask Porter for four months and each sip made lockdown feel more like a bad dream. By the fourth round, I'd got my timing right—the next pint arrived just as we finished the dregs of the last.
Words + Photoby Jonny Garrett