Good Beer Hunting

no. 434


Over a rope and up an incline of stairs, here we are, perched above diners and staff alike, the floaty-eyed buzz of our dinner beers—Drie Fonteinen’s Armand & Gaston and Oude Kriek—still working its way through us. The glow of the bakery and test kitchen reflects in the still water just beyond Noma’s walkway, the lights of Refshaleøen flickering in the distance. The prep kitchen whips plates into order while, in the nearby lounge, people with full stomachs sip and reflect. But up here? It’s quiet. Copenhagen seems calm.